• Before Class:
  Please exercise your dog prior to class. If they are all full of pent-up energy, they will struggle to pay attention. Bring your dog hungry to motivate your dog for food rewards.
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• Keep Your Distance:
  Please keep your dog on a short leash right by your chair. If you let them stray, they may disrupt a friendly neighbor who is trying to practice.  Do not let your dog greet other dogs.
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• No “Negative” Training Methods:
  Harmful or negative techniques are NOT permitted. The use of choke-chains, prong-collars or shock-collars will not be allowed. Pain of any type including: hitting, rolling your dog, pinning your dog or any type of physical harm is not permitted in any way.  Leash pops, corrections, “No’s!”, “EHH’s!”, or punishment is not permitted.
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• Treats:
  Please have your treats ready and accessible in a pouch to hang on your waist. Find what your dog loves and can’t refuse and bring it to class each week.  Examples: chicken, turkey, turkey hot dogs, soft doggie treats, etc. These treats must be more motivational than other dogs or distractions around them. Pay your dog well!
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• Leashes & Collars:
  Have your dog wear a 4 or 5-foot leash. If your dog tends to pull on the leash, I do not recommend a typical harness that hooks onto your dog’s back.  For better control, I suggest a “helper” such as a tight-fitting “No Pull” harness where the leash hooks onto a loop located on the dog’s chest. This is for better leverage and will help to redirect your dog’s body backwards/sideways if they try to pull forward. I recommend the “Easy Walk” or “Freedom” brand.
• Each Dog Is Different:
  Please do not compare your dog with other dogs in class. Have fun, relax, socialize and teach your dog that “learning and paying attention to you” is a GOOD thing!

• INTERMEDIATE TRAINING CLASS:After graduating Beginner Training Class, enroll into Bark-A-Bout’s next Intermediate Training Class! Throughout this 4-week course, Intermediate Training fine tunes skills and existing obedience commands and adds essential control skills/cues such as: Go Place, Touch (Attention Game), Leave It, Stay, Heel, Back, and Leash Cues (Slow & Stop). Also adds proper greetings and continues with self-control exercises.
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  SOCIALIZATION THROUGH DOG DAYCARE:Dog Daycare turns Bark-A-Bout into your dog’s personal playground! Dog Daycare gives dogs opportunity to socialize and exercise in a healthy, fun social atmosphere. Bark-A-Bout boasts Macomb County’s largest dog daycare resort with over 24,000 square feet of indoor-outdoor play space designed just for your dog’s exploration. All dogs enjoy their afternoon adventure in a safe, structured environment that is supervised by trained, qualified Pet Care Handlers. Bark-A-Bout’s trustworthy and attentive Pet Care Handlers get to know each dog’s personality and hand-select each play group based on dog size and temperament.To enjoy Bark-A-Bout’s dog daycare and be around other dogs in our facility, each dog must go through Bark-A-Bout’s Meet~N~Greet “Enrollment Process“. In addition, each dog must have written proof that they are up to date on our required “Vaccinations“. Male dogs 6 months and older must be neutered to participate in our daycare program.

Everything that is stated on this webpage can be printed by clicking the Word Documents listed below. The Download will automatically start once the link is clicked.

• Beginner Obedience – Owners Manual Training Tips – Printable
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• How To Stop The Barking – Printable
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• Stop Your Dog From Pestering You – Printable
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• How To Stop Counter Surfing – Printable
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• Resource Guarding Advice – Printable

Word Documents will automatically download once the link is clicked..

• Beginner Training – Week 1 Homework – Printable
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• Beginner Training – Week 2 Homework – Printable
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• Beginner Training – Week 3 Homework – Printable
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• Beginner Training – Week 4 Homework – Printable
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• Beginner Training – Week 5 Homework – Printable

“Dog Body Language 101” by Fear Free Happy Homes

“Dog Body Language: Proper Play Examples” by Preventative Vet

“How To Read Your Dog’s Body Language When Training” by Kikopup

“4 Things Your Dog Is Trying To Tell You” by BeChewy

“Dog Communication: Dog Body Language” by Go Anywhere Dog

“How To Condition A Gentle Leader” by Jean Donaldson

“How to Crate a Puppy” by Zak George

“What To Do About Your Dog’s Separation Anxiety” by Zak George

Natures Miracle, Odor and Stain Eliminator

Developmental Stages:

2 to 5 months : Puppyhood or Adolescence
You are forming your dog’s future temperament with socialization and training.   This is when your puppy listens well and stays right by you – like a perfect angel.  Enjoy it now, it will end shortly 😉

5 to 6 months: Pre-Teen and Flight Stage
Your once happy go lucky puppy that listened consistently will now begin to wander, ignore you and simply act like a teenage bozo.  Continue your training, try to remain calm and make learning FUN!

6 to 18 months:  Teenager.
Your dog will begin to test you and your patience.  They may continue to act like a teenaged bozo, they will act as if they don’t even hear you!   Remain calm and lower your “levels” if needed.   Ask for much less out of your teenager!  Use super high value treats/rewards – pay your Teenager WELL!  Your dog’s hormones will also begin to come in, decide now if you will spay or neuter.  *I have always spayed and neutered at 6 months old.

18 months to 3 years old – Moving Into Adulthood.
Aggression may arise and dogs that once have gotten along, may now begin to fight.

Fear Periods:  8 to 11 weeks old and again from 6 to 14 months old.
Dog’s go through 2 fearful periods throughout their early lives and tend to revolve around growth spurts and sexual maturation.  They do vary dog to dog, but most fall into certain timeframes.  If you notice that your once confident dog seems to be very insecure or frightened of new things, they may be in a fear period which may last up to 3 weeks or so. Continue socialization, but ask much less of your dog if they are fearful.  Make sure they do not experience any major unpleasant experiences during these periods as these can scare a dog and unfortunately the fear can last a lifetime.

Socialization is the process of introducing your dog to the “human world” in a positive manner – People, animals, sights, places, sounds, things, textures, etc.

The most important time to socialize your dog is from 8 to 16 weeks old.
This stage is called the “critical early socialization window”. At this age, your dog is sensitive and must have only pleasant interactions. Any unpleasant interaction may result in a lifetime of fears! This does not necessarily mean that older pups can’t socialize, but every day past 16 weeks old, their willingness diminishes.

Begin socializing during the Critical Period and continue throughout your dog’s whole life:

1. 100 new people of all ages and sizes (including lots of children and men as they are a bit more threatening)
2. 25 to 100 new dogs
3. 25 new fun places
4. Lots of new noises – loud noises, high pitched noises, dogs barking, motor cycles etc.
5. Things – everything your dog may ever encounter in their lifetime – wheelchairs, stairs, boats, cars, buses, bikes, mops etc.
6. Textures – different surfaces such as tile, carpet, sand, clay, wood

Without Proper Socialization:
Your dog may grow up lacking proper “coping skills”, which can lead to irrational fears, stress, anxiety, reactivity and aggression.  When they become older, they may not be able to deal with the “unknown”.

You may now have a dog that is:
– Fearful
– Insecure
– A bit shy
– Apprehensive with new things/places/sights
– Reactive
– Aggressive due to fear*
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Common examples of an under-socialized dog who has missed the Critical Window:

1. A dog was never introduced to stairs – the dog is now unable to go up the stairs to the Vets Office.
2. A dog was not introduced to a lot of things such as brooms, skate boards, wheel chairs, buses, cars etc. – they are now very stressed when the owner brings home a new exercise machine.
3. A dog never met a lot new children (besides the families), they decide to visit their friend’s house where there will be new children. The dog hides and even growls at the children when approached.
4. A dog never visited a lot of new places – the owner decides to take their dog camping. The dog is very stressed and fearful in the new surroundings.
5. A dog only meets the neighbor’s dog, the owners’ family’s dog and the other household dog. The owner decides to take their dog for a walk at the park where there are a lot of new dogs.  The dog begins by showing minor stress body language, and quickly progresses to barking at other dogs and trying to hide.
6. A dog didn’t meet a lot of men, only the owner and the neighbor “Jim”. A repair man visits their home and the dog charges and growls at the “new man”.
7. A dog is brought to a Beginners Training Class at the age of 7 months old. The dog has very limited socialization.  The dog has only been to the vets and out for walks.  The dog has only met the owners’ dogs and the neighbor’s dog.  The dog has met a few people out during walks and in the owner’s home.  During week 1 of the class the dog had to be carried up the stairs (fear of stairs), the dog will not approach the trainer, the dog hides and shakes.  The trainer wheels the mop bucket past the dog and the dog backs away and puts their tail between their legs.  When the social/happy dog sitting next to them tries to approach this dog, they fearfully bark at the oncoming dog.   The dog will not take treats as they are too stressed and overwhelmed.  The owners wonder why the dog is behaving in such a way.  Their trainer explains what proper socialization is and then are asked if they properly socialized their dog.  The answer is typically “no”.   The owners now understand why their dog is acting the way they are.  They missed “socialization”!

*If your dog’s fears are extensive, they have progressed past simply “socializing” or introducing them to new things.  Your dog may now need professional help from an experienced Behaviorist or Trainer, who can help manage and modify your dog’s behaviors and fears.

Puppyhood Is Challenging:

Management:
Your puppy should not have full rein of your house. Limit their area to a dining room or living room.  Put up gates and close doors if needed.  Use their crate or a puppy playpen.  Have them on a leash or long line if needed.  Keep them within your sight and open up their area slowly over months.

Chewing:
Provide your puppy with plenty of teething objects such as Bully Sticks, Big Frozen Carrots, Bones, Kong’s, Horns, Hooves, Antlers, and specifically made teething toys. Do not give them toys that mimic household items, socks, slippers etc. Put their toys in a designated bin and lead them there to take out toys.  Puppy’s teeth from approximately 3 months to 6 months old.  If your puppy has an “illegal” object, use your “trade” or “drop it” command and lead them (redirect) to the designated toy basket and teach them what you want them to chew on instead.  If your dog is targeting a specific “item”, try a taste deterrent such as Bitter Apple. *Do not just use “no, leave it, go away etc.” Remember, this does not teach anything.

Barking:
Eventually your puppy will find their voice. Do not encourage it in any manner unless you want a “barker”!  Examples: your pup barks for attention, walk away.  Your pup barks at another dog, quickly walk them in the opposite direction, away from what they want.  Your dog barks to eat, put the bowl up and walk away. Teach your puppy that quietness gets them everything, after they stop barking for 5 seconds, give them what they want.

Prevention of Aggression:
This section is for Prevention of aggression, not for modification of existing aggression.
If your dog is actively displaying signs of aggression, you will need a Certified Trainer or Behaviorist who specializes in aggression.

• Lack of Socialization:
  When a dog is not properly socialized during the critical period of 8 to 16 weeks old and then continued their entire lives.  If a dog has not had enough positive experiences with new – people of all ages, dogs, heard noises, things, places etc., they may become insecure, anxious, or aggressive.
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• Aversive Methods and Tools:
  The use of any type of fear or pain-based method or tool has the potential risk of causing aggression.  (Explained below)
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• “Taking” Values Away From Your Dog:
  By chasing your dog when they have illegal objects, shouting at your dog or taking valuable objects away from them without replacing them with a higher value item, you run the risk of causing your dog to become defensive and untrusting of people.  This is referred to as Resource Guarding.  Humans become – mean “takers”.  Our motto is “always trade, never TAKE”!  *Also never scold, discipline, chase, case fear or pain.
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• “Messing” With A Dog’s Values:
  Some people think that messing with a dog’s food bowl or belongs will teach a lesson of acceptance – “I can take your bowl if I want to!” or “I can touch your bone if I feel like it!!!”.  This actually teaches the very opposite.  The dog is learning and making the association that humans are annoying and mean.  Ask yourself, would you like a person messing with your dinner plate or taking your phone away – just because???
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• Pain/ Health Issues: 
  If your dog is acting out of the ordinary by growling or trying to bite, give your vet a call for a full examination.

NIPPING / MOUTHING
Why do puppies nip? 

Exploring: Puppies explore everything with their mouths, just as toddlers explore everything with their hands.
Teething: Puppy’s teeth from approximately 3 to 6 months old and during this time, mouthing and nipping are especially common.
Attention/Play: Puppies learn when to bite and how hard to bite from their litter mates and mother during playtime. This is called “bite inhibition”.

BITE INHIBITION
Teach your dog to have a “soft mouth”:
Dog’s teeth should not press down harshly on humans.  It is best to take over where your puppy’s littermates left off.  If a puppy bit too hard, the other puppy would get very upset, yelp (sometimes very loudly or more softly like a cry) and walk away abruptly (“I hate you”).

*This cannot be skipped! Your puppy will never learn that human’s skin is sensitive and later on in life if they do actually bite, it will be much harder!

1. Why And When?
   “TRIGGERS” – Make a list of when and why your pup seems to be extra “nippy” – being on the ground with them, being on the couch with them, petting their heads, playing tug of war, playing excitable games, when they are over-stimulated, when they are walking on a leash, when they are hungry etc.  Stay away from these “triggers”, if possible until your dog has control of the mouths and is done teething around 6 months old.  Provide them with plenty of naps and down time, tiredness and boredom are the leading cause of Nipping.
2. It Hurts!
   If your puppy’s teeth bear down too hard on any part of your body, yelp out “OW” or “OUCH”! Dog’s respond differently to different tones of the word “ouch/ow” and you may need to experiment with your tone. This is not meant to scare them. Use a soft, sad “OWWW” if needed.

*If your yelping is over stimulating or making the nipping worse skip #2 and remain silent.

3. Disconnect & Freeze:
   Do not move your body at all, stay very still (teach your children to, look up, fold their arms and be Trees until the puppy goes away). Dogs read body language. Put on your very sad/mad/disgusted face and after your puppy withdraws, turn away slowly, cross your arms and ignore your puppy for 10 seconds or until your dog calms down. Reward your dog with praise and a toy if they stop nipping or play nicely!
4. Redirect:
   When you return, quickly redirect your dog (teach) to an appropriate chew object such as a Bully Stick, Hoof, Horn, big frozen carrot, Bully Stick, Himalayan Chew or Nyla bone (soft toys are not going to do it typically – Rawhides are very dangerous!).
5. Persistent Dog:
   If your dog is very persistent, you may need to even walk away slowly as if saying “You’re mean, I am not playing anymore!!!” and lock yourself in the bedroom if needed. Return in 30 seconds or so. Jump over a gate to ignore them if needed. Always have an escape route out when you are around your nipping puppy!
6. Your dog may need some quiet time in their crate. This is not for punishment, make it “fun Kong Time”. Give them a Frozen Loaded Kong and let them calm down or take a nap and then let them out. Go back to whatever you were doing when your puppy began “nipping”, if your puppy plays nicely make sure you praise them calmly and if they nip again.
7. Reward Appropriate Behavior:
   Don’t focus on just the nipping. If your dog sits quietly by you, has a soft mouth or licks you – CALMLY PRAISE AND PLAY WITH THEM!!!!!
8. Be Prepared:
   Never approach or be around your puppy without something in your hands to offer them before they nip!
9. How Long?
   Over the next weeks to months you may need to repeat this up to 500 times, not just 5 times. This takes time; the nipping will soften and lessen over time. Most people give up too quickly. Stick to your technique.
10. It May Get Worse:
    Beware your puppies nipping may intensify, this is actually a good thing. Your dog is now realizing their nipping no longer gets them what they want. They are now trying harder and harder; this is called “extinction”. When a behavior finally stops due to lack of reinforcement. Consistency and patience will be essential.

What Not to Do:
Do not interact or engage with your dog! Do not hit your dog, pinch their lips, tap or hit their nose, hold their mouth closed, say “no bite”, roll them over and pin them, yell at them etc. Do not talk to your dog or continue walking. Freeze! Do not pull away.

Other Rules, Advice and Reminders:

• Teething Toys:
  If your dog is teething, always have appropriate teething toys such as big frozen carrots, bully sticks, frozen Kong’s, horns or antlers available for your dog to teeth on.
• Try a Flirt Pole:
  Herding Breeds or dogs with high prey or chase drive dogs were born to chase and nip. Try a Flirt Pole to fulfill your dog’s chase/nip needs, a toy that mimics a giant cat toy (a long pole with a 7-foot rope attached and a fun chew toy tied to the end). (Flirt Pole Know How).
• Stay away from your puppy’s mouth, face and head if needed:
  Petting and snuggle time may need to be put on hold for a few months until your dog has control of their “teeth”.
• Proper Play:
  No rough play, play boxing, wrestling or getting on the ground if this makes your dog extra nippy. Don’t over stimulate your puppy by getting them all riled up, this usually elicits mouthing and nipping.  Play calmly!Follow your Class 1 Handling Homework to work on nipping while petting if needed.

HOUSEBREAKING:

Housetraining takes a lot of time and commitment from the whole family in order to be successful. Dogs don’t just train themselves, although some are easier to train than others. Everyone in the household must be willing to help with the training, taking the dog out at all hours, supervising the dog so accidents don’t happen and cleaning up when they do. It may take several months for a dog to become reliably housebroken; you may take one step forward and three steps back.  If you are patient and consistent in following the rules suggested below, you should be very successful in housetraining your puppy or dog.

General Concept: Make accidents impossible with management, do not punish mistakes, clean up accidents correctly and reward success in the appropriate desired place.

THE PROCESS / TEACHING:  You think your dog needs to “go” – put your dog on a leash or a 10-foot line (some dogs need a little distance).   You must go out with your dog in order to reward them, sending them out by themselves is not teaching your dog anything.  If they are 20 feet away, how are you going to reward them within 1 second?   Ring the potty bells if you are bell training and walk out to your designated potty area.  Give your dog the “potty” cue.  Make sure your dog understands this is not play time. You are out there for a certain purpose.  If and when your dog eliminates, praise and treat your dog a few times (I give 3 pieces of chicken).  Give your dog more time to go, they may still need to eliminate.  If your dog Pees and Poops, you may then go back inside, but still closely watch your dog if they are young.  If your dog does not either Pee or Poop and you have been outside for quite a while, you may then go back inside and monitor your dog very closely, keeping them right next to you or using the crate as a management tool.  In 10 minutes, your dog will go back outside for another “potty” trip.   Repeat the process until you have “potty” success!

HOW TO HOUSEBREAK YOUR DOG:

Where do you want them to go:  Decide now as you may be teaching Forever Habits.  Do you want them to potty inside the house on a pad or grass patch?  Do you want them to potty in the front or backyard?  Do you want them to potty in a certain area?  Decide now!!!!  Once your dog forms a habit it may be very difficult to break later on.  I do not recommend pad training inside if eventually you want your dog going outside.  I do not recommend doing pad training (inside training) and also teaching them to potty outside (outside training) as this is extremely confusing to a dog.  I do not recommend putting pads in your dogs’ crate as this teaches them to potty in their “den”.

Physical Limits of Puppies/Dogs:  Young puppies may physically need to eliminate every 1 to 2 hours during the day when they are most active.  They may be able to control themselves longer overnight.  Most young puppies need to go out 1 or 2 times during the night.  Adult dogs may be able to hold their waste for 6 to 8 hours during the day and usually 8 to 10 hours overnight.  These are only averages and individual dogs may be able to control their need to eliminate for longer or shorter periods than this.

Management:  Make accidents virtually impossible!  Supervise your untrained dog constantly, use a crate, baby gages and close doors to keep your dog in sight. Most dogs will not eliminate in a crate or pen (it’s their den), use this to your advantage.  Make sure the crate is small enough with only room to stand up and turn around in a circle.  If it is too large, the dog may eliminate at one end and lay on the other end. Block off rooms and stairways, keep your dog in a small area until they have proven themselves trustworthy.

• If your dog has a certain “preference/area/spot”, such as behind a chair or under the table, block off access, put a huge box on the “spot”, move a chair over a “preference area” or don’t let your dog in that room.
• Dogs generally will not eliminate where they spend a lot of time (sleeping, eating and playing), use this to your advantage by feeding or putting their bed/crate by their “indoor accident spots”. Example – my puppy Pooped under the dining table so I began feeding him there.  Dog’s don’t Potty where they eat, he no longer pooped there.

What to watch for/when they need to go:  Take your dog out after eating (usually within 2 to 30 minutes after), drinking, waking up, before going in or out of their crate, after extensive chewing, running or playing.  Also look for “tell-tale” signs such as circling, sniffing, squatting, standing by the door, barking or a look of urgency or confusion.  Puppies need to go out every 1 to 2 hours and older dogs need to go out every 2 to 5 hours (during the day).   Do not take your dog out too frequently, this will not give your dog a chance to learn how to hold it, they will get in the habit of emptying their bladder every 20 minutes.  They will also not learn how to “alert” you if you don’t give them the chance to do it on their own.

Communicate with your dog:   Choose a “potty” word to label your dog’s behavior.  Your dog will catch on to this word quickly.  As your dog is in the process of eliminating, tell them what they are doing (this is how dogs learn words) “Potty, Potty, good girl”.

Choose a “potty” area:  Have your dog on a leash or long line as you need to go outside with your dog.  Go out the same door every time to eliminate confusion and choose an area approximately 20 ft. x 20 ft.  Make this area separate from their play area so they don’t get confused.  Pee pad training your dog:  encourage them to use the pad instead of the grass using the same concept.    Keep the potty pad in one area where your dog has quick access.  Do not keep moving it as your dog will quickly become confused.  You are trying to form strong habits.

Keeping a Schedule:   Keep a log of your dog’s “potty” progress and put it on the refrigerator for reference. Make sure everyone in the house is aware of it and follows the rules and schedule.

Feeding:  Make sure your dog is on a high-quality dog food.  If your dog is being fed a low-quality food which contains mostly fillers, they will need to eliminate much more often, as their food is going right through them.    Feed on a schedule – what goes in must come out.  Feed 2 to 3 times per day on a strict schedule; put the bowl down for 15 minutes and then pick it up.  If you leave it down all the time, you won’t know when your dog has to go.

Alerting “I need to go!!”:  This is half of Training!  Make sure you have a giant party if your dog tells you they need to go Potty; give treats, praise, petting for alerting you.  Most dogs will whine, bark, circle or stand by the door.  If you want to be very certain of your dogs “alert” you can teach them to ring a bell to go “potty”.  Bell How To:  Hang some jingle bells at your dog’s nose level by the door. Owner rings the bells and says “potty” before going outside, this teaches your dogs that the bells = potty outside.  Do this for a week or so.  Next, hold a treat behind the bells and your dog will take the treat and accidently ring the bells.  Give the treat AS you are saying “potty” and then take them outside. Do this until your dog eventually catches on and realizes if they ring the “potty bells” they get a treat and they go outside potty (and get 3 more treats 😉).

Reward your dog: Use very high-quality treats such as chicken or liver to treat your dog’s success. Timing is essential as dogs live in the moment. You must reward them highly AS they are just finishing up. Calmly start praising AS they are going and just as they begin to stand up or finish, they receive the 3 pieces of chicken.  Do not reward them after they stand up and walk away or when they walk into the house. You must reward your dog every time they eliminate in the preferred place. You are teaching your dog that “outside” or “pee pad” means “very exciting treats” and inside means nothing. Going outside is much more rewarding than going inside!

Punishing mistakes: Do not ever punish an accident by yelling or saying “no”, rushing at them (that’s still scary) or scaring them in any way. This will only teach your dog that “pottying” in front of you is scary and they will choose to do it behind the couch or in the other room.  This will make housebreaking much more difficult. Even if you find an old accident (even 5 seconds ago), there is nothing you can do but smile, clean up the mistake and tell yourself to watch your dog more closely. If you do catch them in the act, simply smile ay “let’s go potty outside”. If your dog goes, reward them generously.

Cleaning up accidents: It is essential to completely eliminate the odor from your home by using cleaner containing “active bacterial enzyme,” like Natures Miracle.  Do not use household cleaners containing ammonia, which mimics the smell of urine and may attract a dog back to eliminate. If you have an older dog that has had many accidents on your carpet, you may want to consider removing your carpet, housebreaking your dog and then buying new carpet. You can purchase a black light to find and illuminate mistakes.

OTHER TIPS:

• If you own a dog that has been using your home as a toilet for quite some time, housebreaking will take a bit more time as it is already a well-established behavior. Your dog has a strong habit, they have learned that Potty = Inside and this unwanted habit will be difficult to change.
• If you have tried to train your dog outdoors; but your dog just has a preference for “inside”, you may try using pee pee pads indoors if all else fails.
• If your dog is urinating quite frequently, make sure they do not have a bladder or urinary infection. Give your vet a call.
• If your dog is leaking urine while excited or meeting visitors, this is “excited pee pees” or “submissive urination”.
• If your dog is eliminating inappropriately only when left alone, they may be experiencing separation anxiety.
• If your dog is depositing very small amounts of urine in certain spots in your home, this may be marking behavior.

There are three types of exercise for a dog.  Mental, physical and enrichment activities.

Dogs are not meant to exercise once or twice a week. They are meant to exercise throughout the day, every day!

Dogs need to get out and about, explore, sniff, engage, see and experience new things. By keeping your dog in “jail” (only in the house or backyard), your dog may begin to act out and show “Red Flag Behaviors”. These include: nipping at the kids, steeling things, jumping on the counters, barking out the window constantly, bothering other household animals and pestering you constantly.

Take a step back and ask yourself, “Did I meet my dogs three exercise needs today”? 

1. Physical – Move your dog’s body.
   Walking, hiking, fetch, biking, etc.
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2. Mental – Use your dog’s brain.
   Obedience/trick training, food puzzles, putting their breakfast in a rolled-up towel so they need to think about how to unroll it to get fed, etc.
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3. Enrichment Activities – Do “doggy” things. These include: sniffing, digging, searching, chewing, tearing things up, etc.
   If you do not allow your dog to do these “doggie things” on something acceptable, they will do them on things you don’t want,  such as: counters, kitty litter box, shoes, tv remote controls, etc.
   .

Enrichment Ideas:
– Hide-And-Seek: Play the “Find It Game” with dog treats or toys.
– Sniff Walks: Go for a walk to specifically sniff fun things out. In fact, this really calms and tires a dog out!
– Foraging Toys: Intentionally give your dog a game to destroy. Put some treats in a box, poke some holes in it and tape it closed.
– Treasure Hunt: Provide your dog with a kiddie pool filled with sand. Hide dog toys for them to dig up and find.

For more info:
“How To Condition A Gentle Leader, ” by Jean Donaldson

Crates or “Puppy Play Pens” are a very useful tool for management and housebreaking.

Make the crate enjoyable!
Most dogs enjoy their crate or pen, and see it as their “safe den”.  Your goal is to teach your dog to accept the crate/pen as a positive place to be in. Feed them there, give them bones, snuffle mats, lick mats, horns, antlers, bully sticks or fill a Kong with peanut butter and chicken and toss it in (freeze the Kong, it will last longer “Kongsicle”).

Do not ever let your dog out when they are whining or barking.
Wait 5 seconds. If your dog is showing panic by trying to escape, drooling, defecation/urinating – you may need to find a behaviorist who specializes in Separation Anxiety.

Do not use their crate/pen for punishment!
Do not feel bad by using the crate. Even when your home, using the crate will help with teaching your dog how to be independent/alone, an extremely important exercise. Begin with the door open, slowly close it for longer and longer periods of time over weeks to months.  If your pup is with you all the time, you are risking Separation Anxiety which is very difficult to treat.

To Learn More:
“How to Crate a Puppy” by Zak George
“What To Do About Your Dog’s Separation Anxiety” by Zak George

HOW DOGS THINK AND LEARN:

Connections – Dogs learn by making connections. Something (=’s) Something.
Dog’s repeat what is rewarding! They repeat what “works”.
Pay very close attention to what your dog is getting out of a specific behavior.

What is it (=’ing).
Is it “working”?

Examples:
– Your dog jumps on you. You push them off and yell.  (Jumping = Attention).
– Your dog is pulling on their leash and you are being dragged behind them. (Pulling = Go).
– Your dog is whining in their crate and you let them out. (Whining = Freedom).
– Your dog is very excited when you arrive home and you pet them. (Excited Behavior = Rewarding).

Speaking Human – Dog’s do not speak human. You must teach a “human cue/word” very specifically if you want them to respond/listen.
So, if you are just “blurting” our words thinking your dog will listen and then getting upset when they don’t – ask yourself, did I teach that human “cue/word”? Is my dog trained well enough at that level (explained below) for them to respond?
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Generalization – Dog’s do not generalize well.
A lot of my clients say their dog listens at home, but won’t listen at their friend’s house.  This is due to Generalization – things are just “different”.  You may need to remind/reteach a certain behavior or command in a new area.  You won’t have to start from scratch, but you will have to backtrack and build your Levels up again (explained below).
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Timing – Dogs live in the moment.

You have 1 second to redirect an unwanted behavior or reward a good behavior.  You must catch your dog in the act, AS they are performing the behavior.  When your dog is in training, I recommend having reinforcement/treats available at all times, just in case!  Every moment is a “learning moment”.

Example of improper timing:  A dog goes potty outside, then receives a treat when they walk in the house.  The dog didn’t get rewarded for going potty outside, they got rewarded for coming in the house. The dog would need to be rewarded 1 second after going potty outside to make the appropriate connection.
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Habits – Dogs learn by forming habits with many repetitions.
It may take 20 to 100 repetitions of a behavior before your dog understands it.  If your dog has formed an “unwanted habit”, it may take a lot longer to replace the “unwanted habit” with a “new preferred habit”.

Canine Body Language –

Your dog is speaking to both humans and other dogs by using their body language. To prevent potential anxieties, fears and even aggressive responses, it is imperative that you and everyone that interacts with your dog understands exactly what your dog is trying to tell you.

Your dog could be saying:
“I am uncomfortable, back off!”
“I am feeling scared!”
“I am anxious about the children!”
“Help, this dog is smelling me and I don’t like it!”

Your dog may be sending off body language through their:
– Eyes
– Ear direction
– Their tail, the way a tail is wagging, laying down
– Sticking a tongue out
– Sniffing
– Yawing
– Sneezing

By closely paying attention to your dog’s unique body language and keeping a journal of your interactions and findings, you will have a stronger bond and trust with your dog.

Important Canine Body-Language State of Being:

• Neutral / Happy – Loose body, happy soft eyes, tail right in the middle, wiggly, no tenseness, curious, mouth is usually open and relaxed. *A wagging tail does not mean a dog is happy or friendly, so beware.
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• Fear – Tail down, tail way up (trying to make themselves look bigger, when in actuality they are fearful), eyes look worried, ears may be far back, body or head may be lowered. May be avoiding / hiding and may be showing “stress / anxiety” signs listed below.
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• Stress / Anxiety – Pacing, lying down, darting eyes, excessive movement, yawning, sneezing, licking lips, sticking tongue out (tongue flick), blinking eyes, raising paw (tucked under if laying down), body lowered, tail down, closed tight mouth, wide eyes (whale eye – whites of eyes showing), panting, dilated pupils, sweating paws / prints, wrinkles around mouth and eyes.
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• Aggressive – Tense bulging eyes, tense body, tail may be raised high and stiff, mouth may be closed tight, hair on back may be raised, freezing / very still (suddenly stopping), baring teeth or growling. Along with the stress/anxiety signs listed above.
  *If you see any of these signs, don’t make sudden movements. Move your dog away slowly or back away slowly.

Positive Reinforcement vs. Aversive Methods –

I choose to follow the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behaviors recommendations of using only Positive Humane Training Methods.
Dogs work well for rewards such as: food, praise, petting, toys, access to things they desire, love, walks etc.  By using motivators, you will be the “good guy” instead of the mean “bad guy”.

Positive Reinforcement: Adding anything that makes a behavior stronger.
With the use of gentle, humane, modern/science-based methods, you will learn to gain your dog’s trust and compliance through rewards and motivators.  These methods are strictly pain-free, force-free and fear-free.

Evidence supports the use of reward-based methods for ALL canine training:
Based on current, scientific evidence on on animal welfare, training effectiveness, and the dog-human relationships, the AVSAB recommends that only reward-based training methods be used for all dog training, including the treatment of behavior problems.
AVSAB promotes interactions with animals based on compassion, respect, and scientific evidence. Based on these factors, reward-based learning offers the most advantages and least harm to the learner’s welfare. Research supports the efficacy of reward-based training to address unwanted and challenging behaviors. There is no evidence that aversive training is necessary for dog training or behavior modification”.

Training methods are most effective when they focus on teaching the animal what to do, rather than punishing them for unwanted behaviors.
The AVSAB says, “Common training issues such as jumping, barking, and housetraining can be managed by arranging the environment appropriately and reinforcing desirable responses. More serious behavior concerns such as aggression, anxiety and fear require a treatment plan that includes environmental management, behavior modification, and in some cases, medication. Environmental conditions that drive the behavior should be addressed and the dog should be set up to make appropriate responses. Management can include avoiding situations that lead to the unwanted behavior, while ensuring the safety of all involved.”

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Quotes by the AVSAB regarding the use of Aversive Tools and Training Methods:

What techniques should be avoided during training?
The AVSAB  says, “An appropriate trainer should avoid any use of training tools that involve: pain (choke chains, prong collars, or electronic shock collars), intimidation (squirt bottles, shaker noise cans, compressed air cans, shouting, staring, or forceful manipulation such as “alpha rolls” or “dominance downs”), physical correction techniques (leash jerking, physical force), or flooding (“exposure”). The learner must always feel safe and have the ability to “opt out” of training sessions. All efforts should be made to communicate effectively and respectfully with the learner.”

“Why should aversive training techniques be avoided?
The consequences and fallout from aversive training methods have been proven and are well documented. These include: increased anxiety and fear-related aggression, avoidance, and learned helplessness. Animals may be less motivated to engage in training and less likely to interact with human members of the household.”

Detrimental Effects on Animal Welfare:
In observational studies, dogs trained with aversive methods or tools showed stress-related behaviors during training, including tense body, lower body posture, lip licking, tail lowering, lifting front leg, panting, yawning, and yelping.  Dogs trained with reward-based methods showed increased attentiveness to their owner.

Your dog is learning every waking moment, they are learning what “works” and what doesn’t “work” for them.  Most unwanted behaviors are due to owners accidentally reinforcing the very behavior they didn’t want in the first place!  You must first understand what reinforcement is to a dog.  Reinforcement is anything that makes a behavior stronger. This can be anything your dog likes, such as: eye contact, talking of any type (even discipline), petting, praise, toys, walks, freedom, food, access to things etc.

Dogs will repeat what gets reinforced and rarely repeat behaviors that do not get reinforced. 

Take a step back, look at everything your dog does. Is something “working” for your dog?  What exactly is your dog getting out of a behavior?  If it “works” for them, it is becoming a strong habit and your dog will certainly repeat that behavior again and more often.

Make sure your dog does not accidently get reinforced for poor behavior. Use proper management protocol until your dog is fully trained and trustworthy. 

You must set up your dog’s environment to make it impossible for your dog to practice unwanted behavior.  Make sure any person your dog comes in contact with are not reinforcing any behavior that you do not want repeated.  Your dog should not be getting anything unless they are giving a behavior or in a frame of mind you want repeated – quietness, calmness, attentiveness, bravery, etc.

1. Dog Proof – put everything away that your dog can reach (rugs, shoes, kid’s toys, food, clear counters etc.).
2. Use gates, crates, leashes, play pens, tie outs, or small rooms to control your dog’s behavior and whereabouts.

Examples of accidental reinforcement and lack of management protocol:

1. Your dog jumps on you and you tell them “off” or “get down”. The dog is accidentally getting reinforced with eye contact and is being talked to.  For the dog, it “worked”, the dog got exactly what it wanted – attention.
2. Your dog pulls forward on the leash and you walk along with them. The tight leash is being accidentally reinforced with continue movement forward.  The dog is learning pulling “works”!
3. Your dog is left free with the kids and is able to practice jumping and nipping. The kids yell, run away and scream.  To the dog, this behavior is “working” – the kids are making a fun game of it.  The behavior will strengthen.  Instead, the dog should be on a leash or in a puppy playpen.
4. You invite visitors over and your dog jumps on them and receives a pet and a “good girl”. It “worked”!  The dog practiced jumping and got accidentally reinforced.  Instead, the dog should be behind a gate until the guests can be told what to do.  If the guests won’t follow directions, put the dog on a leash or in a crate with a Frozen Kong.
5. Your making lunch and the phone rings in the other room. Your dog jumps on the counter and receives a sandwich.  The dog just got accidently reinforced for counter surfing and there was a lack of management in play.  Instead – do not leave your dog unattended around counters if there will ever be food on them.  Put your dog in their crate with a bully stick when making lunch.
6. You put your dog in the backyard to play while you’re in the house. The neighbors come out and your dog barks and barks.  The dog practices their barking, therefore making it stronger (self-reinforcement).  Instead – be outside with your dog to manage their behavior.  If the dog begins to bark, quickly redirect them to a “scatter treat/find game” on the opposite side of the yard or take your dog back into the house.

Rewards and Motivators –
Most dogs work well for treats, calm praise, toys, petting, love and life rewards.

Recommended Food Treats:
– Chicken
– Turkey
– Turkey hot dogs
– Freeze dried liver
– Freeze dried salmon
– Small soft “doggie treats”.

The higher the value and smellier the treat, the better response you will get!
If your dog absolutely could care less about treats, find their motivation such as praise, a toy, tug, etc. and use this to reinforce good behavior.

Dog’s will always choose the more rewarding option:
Whichever reinforcer you choose to use, remember that dogs will always choose the more reinforcing/rewarding option.  If you are working around distractions and your dog is not responding, ask yourself “am I or that smell on the ground more rewarding?”  If the answer is the smell, you need to make yourself more rewarding.  Switch to higher value treats, make the exercise more of a fun game, use more treats or talk with a happy/higher pitched voice, etc.

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CREATE A REWARD’S SCHEDULE:
Determine ahead of time how and when you will use treats when teaching your dog a new behavior.

Continuous Rewards:
Use a treat until the behavior is about 75% understood. Don’t use treats too long, as your dog will quickly get stuck on them.
Examples: A simple command such as “Sit” would be treated for a few days (30-40 repetitions).  More difficult behaviors such as “Leash walking” would be treated a few months (200 – 2000 repetitions).
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Random Rewards:
Use a treat every 2 times, 5 times, then 2 in a row etc. I call this “maybe – maybe NOT” method (they might get a treat, they might not).  Instead of treating add some praise – I use “Thank You” in a soft happy tone.  Try not to be too exciting, your dog will lose concentration.  Continue using your “maybe – maybe NOT” method.

Life Rewards:
Anything your dog finds pleasant:  having fun, petting, going outside, going for a walk, eating, play time, greeting people etc.
Example: If you “Down/Wait” you can say “Hi” to the neighbor.
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Switch It Up:
Treat every so often, praise periodically and give plenty of “life rewards”.

Jackpot Reward:
If your dog performs something very difficult or makes a breakthrough, give them a “Jackpot Reward”, which is 3 or 4 treats in a row.
An example would be if your dog is performing or learning something very difficult such as “Stay”, Housebreaking or Leash Walking.

Where to Train and How to Progress –

Your dog’s training can be assessed using a “Level System”.

The goal is to reach a perfect “Level 100”. Level 100 is achieved after your dog can perfectly perform a command or behavior around very large distractions in new areas.

Levels between 1 and 100 must be accomplished at a slow and steady pace. Progression to a higher level can only happen once a command or behavior is consistently performed well. If and when your dog begins to fail a particular level, regress to a lower challenge level, and repeat that level until the behavior or command can be performance well with consistency. For example, although your dog may understand a certain “command” this does not mean they are ready to jump from Level 20 to Level 50, “performing around a small distraction”. Take it slow and repeat the levels until consistent.

An example “Level 100” would be:
Perfectly performing a command, such as “Stay” in a public area like a park while off-leash, with many large distractions such as dogs barking and children running around, yelling and screaming.

Example of “Loose-Leash Walking” Level System:

Level 1: Begin Learning the Behavior/Command. No Distractions.
Learning “Let’s Go”.

Level 20: Understanding the Behavior/Command. No Distractions.
Understanding what “Let’s Go” means, while practicing in the house.

Level 50: Mastering the Behavior/Command. Adding Small Distractions.
Mastered “Let’s Go” in the house, now moving to the front porch.

Level 75: Mastered the Behavior/Command. Adding Larger Distractions.
“Let’s Go” is already mastered on the front porch, now practicing down the street.

Level 90: Mastered Behavior/Command. Working on Generalization.
Learn how to walk in new areas.

Level 100: Mastered Behavior/Command in New Areas with Large Distractions.
Your dog can now perfectly walk loose-leash in new areas with large distractions. (May have taken months to build up to).

How to Teach a Word / Command – This is very important, as dogs do not speak human, you must first formally teach your dog words in order for them to understand them.

1. Getting the behavior:– Luring:
   Holding a treat to your dog’s nose like a magnet and having them follow it.  Moving them into different positions such as, sit, down, stand, bow, spin etc.  Example:  You want your dog to “sit” – hold a treat to their nose and slowly raise it over their head towards their tail, your dog will follow that treat lure, they will “sit” and receive the treat/lure.  Eventually fading out the lure when the behavior when the dog begins to understand.
   
   – Catching:
   Your dog willingly offers a given behavior on their own, enabling you to reinforce it and pair it with a command.  Example:  You’re teaching “down”, your dog happens to lay down on their own.  Just AS they perform you label it “down” (telling them what they did) and reward it with a treat.
   
   – Shaping:
   Reinforcing small, easy-to-accomplish portions of the full desired behavior. Slowly shaping it into a full behavior or command.
   Example: You’re teaching “Down”. You start by rewarding your dog for going 1/4 way down. Then slowly, over the course of a week, encourage your dog to move farther and farther into the full “Down” position.

2. Labelling the “Word/Command”:
   Tell your dog what they are doing, AS they are doing it.  It is important when teaching a command to say the command AS your dog is doing it, NOT before or after.
3. Mark and Reinforce the Behavior:
   Reward approximately 30 to 60 times so your dog learns the word.
4. Test the “word”:
   You can’t give a command until you test the “word” to see if it is understood.

How To:
Get your dog’s attention, give your hand sign and verbal “word”. Only say the word 1 or 2 times and then give your dog time to think about it.  If your dog responds, follow your Reinforcement Schedule and Level System (explained above).   If your dog does not respond, give the hand sign and verbal word again, while giving them plenty of time to think about it.  If your dog still does not respond, go back to step 2 and then retest again.

Get Your Dog’s Full Attention:
Only tell your dog what to after you have their full attention. To grab their attention say their name, make kissy noises, tap them on the shoulder, scratch their butt, jiggle their leash, step in front of them etc.
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Tone of voice:
Your tone of voice should be motivating and straight to the point.
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Bribery:
Do NOT bribe your dog. When you have to hold out a treat in your dog’s sight in order for your dog to listen to you this is bad.  This is very different than using a Lure. (how?)
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Over-Repeating A Command:
If your dog knows a command well and they are choosing not to respond, do not keep repeating yourself. This may teach your dog that they can ignore you.  Instead
1. Ensure you have their undivided attention.
2. Assess that they are on the Level you are asking.
3. Make it more “fun” for your dog.
4. Walk away for 5 seconds and then try again.If they still don’t respond, end the exercise.  Dogs have “free will”, and we can’t force them do things.
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Consistency:
Everyone interacting with the dog must use the same “words” and hand signs.
For example, “Down” and “Off”.  “Down = Lay on the ground”, and “Off = Get Off Me”.

Practice commands during your normal daily routine, in little, short fun sessions.
Make training fun and always end on a good note before anyone gets bored.

Doing dishes: Practice Down/Stays.

Walking to get the mail: Practice waiting at the door and walking nicely on a leash.

Watching TV: Practice some Sits and Watches.

Feeding your dog: Practice Sit/Wait/Look and release them with “Okay”.

Marker Word: A short, verbal Marker Word will instantly reinforce a positive behavior.
After hearing the Marker Word, your dog will successfully make the proper association between a desired behavior and an anticipated reward.
Dogs tend to learn quicker and easier with a “Marker Word” than those taught without one.

Choosing a Marker Word:
Example Marker Words: Yes! Thanks! Awesome! Correct!
Do not choose: “Good Girl” or “Good Boy” as two or more words takes too many seconds to complete saying.

Verbal Reinforcement Must Immediately Follow A Desired Behavior:
Your Marker Word or “bridge” will immediately cue your dog that they have successfully completed a task by ‘Check Marking’ a specific behavior.  Without a verbal Marker Word, too much time may lapse between a desired behavior and treating your dog. In that case, your dog may be onto something else, and unintentionally believe they are being rewarded for a completely different behavior.

A Treat Is Coming!
Once the Marker Word has been spoken, your dog will anticipate a treat is coming and on the way. By saying the Marker Word, you’ll have a few extra seconds to supply the treat.

>> Before formally giving your dog the Marker Word, you must select a word and teach your dog the word. We worked on some of this during class.

Marker Word Homework:
Continue to say your “Marker Word” and quickly give your dog a treat. This reinforces the concept that “Word” = Treat. Do this 20 times per day throughout the next week. During the next class you will learn when to best use your Marker Word.

“Name Game”: Grab your dog’s attention by calling their name.

Prepare by grabbing a handful of treats. While sitting, say your dog’s name in a happy tone. If your dog looks at you, quickly treat them. Progress to standing up and treating, and then walking around and treating.
*Do not ever use their name in a negative way or tone!

Jumping Management:  if you can’t explain the new rules to strangers, have your dog on a leash so they can’t practice jumping.   *Make sure you tell houseguests your dog’s rules.

• Jumping More: Your dog may begin to realize that their jumping no longer is getting them what they want.  They will actually begin to jump more, they are thinking “maybe I need to try harder, this worked before”.   This means your technique is working, stick with it!  *This is called “extinction”.
• Triggers: Does your dog jump when you arrive home or when playing a certain game? Teach your dog that this behavior makes the game stop or you walk right on out the door if they jump. Repeat 20 times or more until your dog understands that Jumping makes you leave the room or end the game.

Most people want to know how to stop barking, but it’s not that simple.  You must first determine “why” your dog is barking in order to stop the barking.  Barking is typically a “symptom” of something else.

WHAT NOT TO DO:  Do not yell at your barking dog.

This will only make your dog’s barking worse, as it sounds like you are barking along with them!
This will accidentally reinforce your dog for barking!

Accidental Reinforcement Includes:
– Giving Eye Contact
– Touching
– Feeding
– Letting them outside
– Praising them
– Soothing them
– Comforting them
– Picking them up
– Smiling at them
– Let them sit with you on the couch etc.

Do NOT PUNISH your dog by yelling at them or by using aversive tools such as spray bottles or cans filled with pennies to scare your dog. This may cause your dog to become insecure and aggressive.
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POTENTIAL REASONS YOUR DOG BARKS:

Lack of Socialization / Fear / Uncertainty:
If your dog is barking due to a lack of social skills or they are afraid of something specific like a person, dogs, items, noises, etc. the barking is a “symptom”.  In order to get rid of the “symptom” (barking) you will need to eliminate your dog’s fear of the object, or work on their social skills.

Alerting:
A dog will alert you when someone approaches you or your house. This is very typical and normal behavior, so long as your dog doesn’t continue to bark for an extended amount of time. Typically, you should be able to step in and redirect your dog to a more appropriate behavior, by simply saying “Thank you. Let’s go find your Kong.”

Excitement:
Dogs will bark out of excitement – “Look Mom, another dog!!!!”  This is typical and normal. You can redirect or give a “Quiet” command, or walk your dog away from whatever they were barking towards. Walking away is a “negative consequence”. Repetition is essential with this technique!  “Barking = Dog” will fade away after your dog begins to see the association that their barking means they have to depart from their friends. Return your dog to the party after your dog quiets down.

Anxiety:
Some dogs will bark when they feel insecure or anxious. To relieve pent-up energy and anxiety, these types of dogs need up to 2 hours per day of mental and physical exercise. To address their root cause of their insecurities, you may also need to build your dog’s confidence through obedience training, agility or some type of activity, such as: backpacking, biking, playing fetch, hide-and-seek, finding treats, etc.  It is very important that you do not reprimand your dog for their anxiety, as this will worsen their anxiety and the barking will increase.

Boredom:
This style of bark can easily be identified with a sad and lonely tone. This bark will stop as a “symptom”, once you give your dog proper daily mental and physical exercise. *Only do this after your dog stops barking.

Attention-Seeking:
Has your dog learned to bark to get your attention? Barking = Attention.
By accidently reinforcing the barking, by making a big fuss when your dog barked – looking at them, touching them or talking to them, your dog has learned that barking works! If this is the case, change your dog’s association with barking by teaching them that barking = nothing! Ignore their barking by walking away. Repeat this concept consistently with every person that comes in contact with your dog. This may take weeks to months before you see results, and must be continued throughout their whole life. Meanwhile, make sure your dog is getting plenty of attention for being quiet and plenty of exercise throughout their day.
*Beware! The barking will get worse before it gets better!
At first your dog will be thinking “What’s happening here? My barking worked before! I need to try harder!!!”  This is your dog’s last-ditch effort before “extinction”.

Nuisance Barking:
Utilize the “Quiet” Command for nuisance barking. Wait for your dog to bark and then wait for them to STOP for 1.5 seconds, say “Quiet” mark and treat WHEN THEY ARE SILENT!. You are labeling the action of stopping the barking.  Repeat 100 times or so. This will take several repetitions in a lot of different circumstances before your dog understands what this word means. Test out the word “Quiet”, as your dog is barking – say “Quiet” while your dog is in the process of barking – if they stop, they understand the word. If not, continue to teach and label your dogs “Quiet” AS they stop barking for a few more days and then repeat the test.

PEOPLE COMING INTO THE HOME OR WHILE OUT FOR A WALK:

Some dogs misbehave when people come into their home. Some bark uncontrollably, become overly-excited, jump, or pester for attention.

Why do dogs pester and jump?

Most of the time a dog pesters as an attention-seeking behavior. They want you to engage with them, talk to them, look at them, touch them, fuss over them, play with them, yes – even yell at them.  Attention is attention, even if it’s discipline!

If a behavior “works” for your dog, they will repeat that behavior. Repeated over time, this behavior will strengthen and become a strong habit.

Looking at a dog, talking to them (even saying “no” or “quiet”), touching them, petting them – any engagement what so ever! In order to rid your dog of this unwanted attention seeking behaviors, they must NEVER get accidentally reinforced for barking, jumping, or excited behavior again when meeting any person.  This is referred to as “management”, until your dog is thoroughly trained or taught an alternative “attention seeking behavior.” You must not let your dog Practice an unwanted behavior.  Use leashes, gates and crates if needed.

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How To Stop A Dog From Pestering:

• New Rules –
  Anyone encountering your dog must follow the new rules. No Talking, Touching, Interacting, or Looking at your dog until they have all 4 feet on the floor, they are calm and they are quiet. If at any time your dog gets too excited, barks or jumps – people stop and walk away.  From now on, your dog will NOT receive anything until they are calm, quiet and have 4 feet on the floor.  This is “all or none”, if your dog gets reinforced randomly (even sometimes) for these behaviors the “habit” will only get stronger.  Random reinforcement is what forms very, very strong habits.
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• Exercise –
  If you are expecting visitors, it will be imperative to make sure your dog is thoroughly mentally, and physically exercised before they arrive.
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• Self-Control –
  Most dogs that have attention seeking issues lack “Impulse Control”. Ask your dog to “Sit/Wait or Stay” for absolutely everything.  Release them when they are quiet and calm.  If at any time they become too excited, loud or bouncy – stop everything you are doing and walk away.  Return in 10 seconds and try again.
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• Habits –
  If in the past, your dog has accidentally been reinforced for any unwanted behaviors, this process will take quite some time. Your dog may now have very strong habits.  Consistency and patience will be essential.
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• Practice –
  Do not try to implement these tips/training exercises when you are actually trying to have people over for a visit. You will fail!  You will need to invite people over to help you practice.
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• Levels –
  There are “levels” to your dogs training. Level 1 is learning something new.  Level 20 is understanding that behavior.  Level 100 is getting them to perform around major distractions.  You must build your levels slowly, meaning starting all training in your home.  Then adding distractions, and then adding larger distractions slowly.  Don’t jump right to level 100 or your dog will fail.  *If at any time your dog is failing, go down a few levels.  Every time your dog “fails”, they are unlearning.  Do not put your dog in the position where they fail!
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• Begin With Family –
  Begin Teaching/Training your dog (forming habits) with just the family. This is to begin forming Good Habits.  Once mastered, you must invite people over (willing participants) to help practice and form new Good Habits.
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• Visitors or people on walks –
  Make sure you explain to your visitors to ignore your dog and turn their back to them if they try to jump or bark. When your dog calms down and has all 4 feet on the floor – your visitors may pay a little calm attention to your dog or even give them a treat.
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• Redirect your dog –
  Always give your dog something better to do after any person has made it inside, such as a, Stuffed Frozen Kong, Bully Stick, Snuffle Mat, Lick Mat, bone etc. so they don’t bother your guests.
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• Management –
  Some very excitable dogs need to be put into another area of the house or behind a gate until your visitors make it into your home. This usually gives your dog time to settle down and then you can let them out.  You can also mange your dog by having them on a leash.  How To:  People knock on the door, yell to your visitors “just a moment”, you put your dog behind a gate or on a leash.  Then you answer the door.

Learning Options –

Reinforce good behaviors –
If your dog sits and waits instead of jumping – reinforce, reinforce, reinforce!

Obedience Commands –
Teach your dog what to do (form habits) when you answer the door and people walk in the house. This will take many months to master before you actually invite “helpers” over to practice/teach.  Start with foundation commands – “place”, “sit or down/stay” and “leave it”.  Build each command to a very high level before actually having people to your house.   After you have mastered your foundations commands, practiced with just your family pretending to be visitors, you must then invite people over to practice (helpers).  If at any time your dog fails, have the person leave and lower your levels (move the place farther away or practice with just family members first).

– “Place” – teach your dog “place”. Position their “place” at least 6 to 8 feet away from the door.  build your levels of Place – adding distance (go to their place) and distractions.

–  “Stay” – begin with just a short period of time and build up to 1 minute. Next work on approaching the door while they are in position – reward them generously for “staying”.  Build up to being able to open the door.  Next you must add distractions – practice opening the door, have someone knock on the door, etc.

– “Leave it” – begin with your dog in a “stay” – you have already practiced walking to the door. You must now add “leave it” as you practice walking to the door, touching the door, opening the door.

Dog goes away –
Invite someone over to practice. Have the person knock on the door, put your dog on a leash and invite the people to come in.  If and when the dog jumps quickly walk them 10 feet away from the Visitor.  Do not look at them, say anything or touch them.  When they calm down walk the dog towards the Visitor.  If they jump again, the dog walks away.  If the dog does not jump, they receive a treat and attention from the Visitor.  Repeat this several times until your dog understands that calm/non-jumping gets the Visitor or person on the walk.  Practice this with a LOT of visitors to form a strong habit.

*Don’t forget to then redirect your dog to a more exciting Toy/Food Game after they have met the visitors.

*During Walks – if your dog barks, jumps or becomes very excited when walking or approaching something/someone – nonchalantly turn them around (in a circle – do not pull them backwards) and walk them in the opposite direction.  This behavior must never make them move forward or towards something they want.  This would be accidently reinforcing the behavior.  Calm, quiet and 4 on the floor makes dogs move forward and receive anything of value.

Person goes away –
Invite someone over to practice. Have the person knock and then come in.  If the dog jumps the Visitor quickly goes back outside.  This also works if the “visitor” is you (the owner) – follow the same technique.  This teaches the dog that jumping makes the “fun person” go away.  Repeat as many times as it takes for the dog to realize when they don’t jump, the visitor gives a treat and some attention.  *Practice this with a LOT of visitors to form a strong habit.  *Don’t forget to then redirect your dog to a more exciting Toy/Food Game after they have met the visitors.

Create a New Habit –
Alternative Behaviors. Teach your dog to “search”, “shake”, “touch”, “high five”, grab a ball for a game of fetch, “spin” etc. instead of jumping, mouthing or barking 😉

Example of how to teach “Search” when people come through a door:
Begin teaching this habit with just the family first to create a strong habit. Walk through the door and quickly before your dog misbehaves toss 10 treats off to the side (do not do this if the dog is barking or jumping).  When your dog is done with the treats, go back outside and repeat the process.  Repeat enough times that when a family member walks through the door, the dog begins sniffing and looking for the treats before you even throw them. If and when this happens, you have created a “search” habit.  You must now work on generalization with new people.  Start with just one person that your dog knows somewhat well to create this new habit. Eventually inviting new people over to practice/teach.
*Don’t forget to then find your dog something more exciting to do!

COUNTER SURFING:

Teaching your dog not to counter surf will take a lot of time effort and also a very high-level obedience. Your dog will need to learn “leave it, “back”, “down/stay” and “go to their place” – all at high levels (all taught in Intermediate Class).  This will help control your dog around counters. Until you are able to reach this high level of training there are other things you can to do to help curb counter surfing.
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Teaching Options/Tips:

Reinforce Good Behavior –
If your dog is behaving around tables or counters – don’t just ignore the good behavior. Reinforce 4 feet on the floor. Repeat, repeat, repeat!!!

Known Commands –
“Off” or “Down”. Teach your dog the command and then use this if or when your dog is on your counters.  You must then redirect them to a more exciting, appropriate activity or they will just jump right back onto the counter.

Exercise and a Bored Dog –
Your dog may be telling you something. Did you meet their mental, physical and enrichment needs for that day?  If you own a high energy or working type dog, you will need to keep those needs met or you will see some “red flag” behaviors such as counter surfing, pestering the kids, barking out the window etc.  Dogs that tend to counter surf tend to need more enrichment exercise – enrichment is things that a dog does in nature such as hunting, sniffing, tracking, chasing etc.  Most of these dogs tend to counter surf, steel laundry for the scent and may get into the garbage.  They are using their natural Hunting/Searching Skills.  Some dog’s enrichment needs are higher than others, some have more natural tendencies to want to search, dig and track – leading to a lot of unwanted behaviors such as counter surfing, steeling laundry and digging in the yard. Fulfill your dog’s Enrichment Needs to help with unwanted behaviors!

• Enrichment activities:

“Hide the treats/find game” – put your dog in the other room.  Hide treats all around the house (start easy, in plain sight).  Let your dog out and point the treats out while saying “find”, this teaches the word “find”.  Each time making the treats harder to find.  Eventually you can just let your dog out, yell “find” and they will use their nose and searching tendencies to find all the treats.

“Scatter game” – grab a handful of treats or kibble and toss it all over the yard.

“Box” – get a box and put 10 treats in it.  Poke holes in the side and put some tape on it to keep it closed.  Let your dog sniff and destroy the box to get the treats out.

Facebook Group – join the Facebook group Canine Enrichment Ideas.  There are always great ideas on how to fill your dog’s Enrichment Needs.

Management –
Never leave your dog unattended to “practice” counter surfing. Practice makes perfect.  Always have your counters clear of anything your dog can get their mouth or paws on.

Nutrition –
Some dogs will scavenge or counter surf due to lack of nutrition. Make sure your dog is being fed a high-quality dog food with mostly meat protein (chicken meal or salmon meal – it must say “meal”), veggies (sweet potatoes, carrots, spinach etc.) and high-quality grains (barley, brown rice, oatmeal etc.).  If they are being fed a lower quality food with low quality ingredients such as “meat” by products, wheat, soy, corn, brewers rice, white rice etc – they may be counter surfing to find nutrition.

Alternative Behavior –
Instead of Counter Surfing – teach your dog to “floor surf” if you do not want them counter surfing. Meanwhile always keep your counters empty just in case your dog does jump on them they will not be rewarded in any way.  Counter = Boring!

How To:  Put your dog away.  Put treats all over the floor in the kitchen.  Let your dog out and have them stumble across the treats on the floor.  This teaches your dog the floors are the place to search – not the counters.  Do this 2 times per day for two weeks to form a “floor surfing” habit.